Sweet-Glazed Ribs

• 1/4 cup canola oil
  
• 1/4 cup diced (1/4 inch) onion
  
• 2 tablespoons finely minced fresh ginger
  
• 1 teaspoon finely minced garlic
  
• 2 tablespoons finely grated orange zest (optional)
  
• 1 cup fresh orange juice
  
• 1/2 cup unsulfured molasses
  
• 1/4 cup pure maple syrup
  
• 3 tablespoons ketchup
  
• 2 tablespoons honey
  
• salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  

• 2 sides port spareribs (2 to 2½ pounds each), or 4 sides of baby back ribs (2 pounds each)
  
• salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  
• 6 scallions (including 3 inches of green), thinly sliced (optional)

1. Prepare the glaze: Heat the oil in a small, heavy pot over low heat. Add the onion, ginger and garlic. Stirring occasionally, cook until wilted, 5 to 8 minutes.
2. Add the orange zest (opt.) and juice, molasses, maple syrup, ketchup, honey, salt and pepper; bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook for 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Stirring occasionally, simmer until the glaze is thickened, about 10 minutes.
3. Strain the glaze through a fine sieve, reserving the solids. Finely mince the solids and return them to the glaze. Cool slightly. (Makes about 2½ cups.)
4. Prepare the ribs: Preheat the oven to 350º F. Place the spareribs, meaty-side up, in a large, shallow baking pan; season well with salt and pepper. After baking for half of an hour, coat the ribs generously with glaze, and keep doing so every now and then until done (during the first half hour the juices from the meat come out and will carry away the glaze). Bake until the rigs are cooked through, tender and nicely glazed, about 1 hour. Cut the ribs apart and serve in bowls, garnished with the scallions.